Huggable Rabbit

Using almost the same body as the Cabin Bear, I made this really cute rabbit. He is wearing a fun sweater which you can customize the applique to match holidays or your mood! I can just see this rabbit with a Christmas tree, an Easter egg, even Halloween appliques! The choices are endless! Have fun making this free crochet rabbit pattern!

You will also notice that this Rabbit has no arms. This is not a design flaw! I designed him perfectly to hug, which is why he is part of my Huggles collection! Another reason he is so huggable is because you will stuff him quite tightly!

This pattern comes with the rabbit pattern and his sweater!

Supplies Needed:
a G/6 (4mm hook)
plenty of stuffing
2 safety eyes size. I used 9mm, but you can use what you want.
• Approx. 400 yards of yarn. Although I do not know the exact because I used a Jumbo Super Saver skein and I used about half. They are 744 yards.
A yarn needle, for sewing things on
A stitch marker – This isn’t optional as you will heavily rely on this.

Stitches you need to know and their abbreviations:

• Single Crochet – sc
• Slip Stitch – ss
• Single Crochet 2 Together – sc2tog or dec
• Double Crochet – dc
• Chain – ch
• Back Loops Only – blo

Notes before you begin:
For the Rabbit it is worked in one piece. Once you get down to the feet however, you’ll need to switch back and forth between the feet or it becomes too difficult to work. Because of this, I ask that you make a small bobbin or small ball of yarn to finish off one foot. I’m not exactly sure how big to make the bobbin because I just cut my yarn and switched. I know people do not like to do this though, which is why I recommend a bobbin or small ball of yarn. If you do go with the bobbin or small ball, and you have an estimate as to how much yarn was used, please report back so I can put that into the pattern!

This entire Rabbit is worked in the round and in continuous rounds. The entire Rabbit is worked in single crochet unless otherwise noted.

You will also notice that sometimes the numbers in the rows change when it feels like they should stick to a pattern. I did this because I wound up getting seams that were going across the Rabbit and I needed to keep the side seams to the side.

Use stitch marker to keep track of your first stitch in each row. You will heavily rely on your stitch marker, so please be comfortable with it!

I don’t stuff the Rabbit to the end. This is quite a big Rabbit and it’s too hard to work the Rabbit when its fully stuffed. Make sure when you do stuff you stuff nice and tight, but not too much that it stretches out the stitches.

Watch your increases as you work around the Rabbit. They are done on the sides and I’ve found that many, many, many times I didn’t pay attention and I didn’t add all three stitches to one stitch and instead mistakenly added them to two different stitches which messed up my count. If you find that your numbers are not matching up, check this before you rip out the whole Rabbit!

Other Information:

If you cannot get stuffing (if you live in a rural area like myself or for other reasons) Go to a dollar store and buy their $2-dollar pillows. Each bear will use about one pillow and it’s a cheap alternative when you cannot get true Fiber Fill.

Soon you will be able to purchase safety eyes on my website. Bookmark my website or sign up for my newsletter to be notified!

Soon, I will be uploading stitch tutorials and some crochet-alongs to my YouTube channel. For now, I will recommend other videos for those having trouble with stitches.

Hereeeee we go!
1) ch 21, 2 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc in the next 18 stitches, 3 stitches in the last stitch.
Turn work and crochet along the next 17 stitches, putting 2 sc in the last stitch. (42)
2) 3 sc in the first stitch, sc in the next 20 stitches, 3 sc in the next stitch, sc in the next 20 stitches
(46)
3) 1, 3 increase, 22, 3 increase, 21 (50)
4) 2, 3 increase, 24, 3 increase, 22 (54)
5) 3, 3 increase, 26, 3 increase, 23 (58)
6) Sc around 58 (58)
7) 5, 3 increase, 28, 3 increase, 23 (62)
8) 6, 3 increase, 30, 3 increase, 24 (66)
9) Sc across 66 (66)
10) 8, 3 increase, 32, 3 increase, 24 (70)
11-27) Sc across 70 (70)
Stop and complete and sew on the nose and place the eyes.

Nose
1) Ch 15.
2) sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and all the way across, ch 1 turn (14)
3) sc2tog (starting in the same stitch), sc in the next 10 stitches, sc2tog in the last two stitches, ch
1, turn. (12)
4) sc 12 across, ch 1 turn. (12)
5) sc2tog (starting in the same stitch), sc 8 across, sc2tog in the last two stitches, ch 1, turn. (10)

 

6) sc2tog (starting in the same stitch), sc 6 across, sc2tog in the last two stitches, ch 1, turn. (8)
7) sc2tog (starting in the same stitch), sc 4 across, sc2tog in the last two stitches, ch 1, turn. (6)
8) sc2tog (starting in the same stitch), sc 2 across, sc2tog in the last two stitches, ch 1, turn. (4)
9) sc2tog twice, ch 1, turn. (2)
10) ch 1, sc around the edge, 2 sc in the corners. Tie off and leave a long tail to sew onto Rabbit.

Nose and Eye Placement
Attach eyes between rows 9 and 10. Find the middle and place your eyes with 5 stitches between
them. When looking at the front, I counted 13 in on each side and placed the eyes around the
14th stitch. You can place the eyes anyway and any shape that you want.
I attached the nose on the 12th row, I just lined it up straight with the eyes. Again, you can place
the nose where you want.
After you attach the eyes and nose, continue with the body.

(Back to Rabbit)

28) 11, 3 increase, 35, 3 increase, 22 (74)
29) 13, 3 increase, 36, 3 increase, 23 (78)
30) 14, 3 increase, 38, 3 increase, 24 (82)
31) sc 82 across (82)
32) 15, 3 increase, 40, 3 increase, 25 (86)
33) 16, 3 increase, 42, 3 increase, 26 (90)
34) sc 90 across (90)
35) 17, 3 increase, 44, 3 increase, 27 (94)
36) 18, 3 increase, 46, 3 increase, 28 (98)
37) 20, 3 increase, 48, 3 increase, 28 (102)
38) 21, 3 increase, 50, 3 increase, 29 (106)
39) sc 106 across (106)
40) 23, 3 increase, 51, 3 increase, 30 (110)
41) 24, 3 increase, 53, 3 increase, 31 (114)
42) 25, 3 increase, 55, 3 increase, 32 (118)
43) 26, 3 increase, 57, 3 increase, 33 (122)
44-57) sc 122 across (122)
58) 27, sc2tog, sc2tog, 56, sc2tog, sc2tog, 31 (118)
59) sc across 118 (118)
60) 27, sc2tog, sc2tog, 53, sc2tog, sc2tog, 30 (114)
61) 26, sc2tog, sc2tog, 51, sc2tog, sc2tog, 29 (110)
62) sc across 110 (110)
63) 26, sc2tog, sc2tog, 49, sc2tog, sc2tog, 27 (106)
64) 25, sc2tog, sc2tog, 47, sc2tog, sc2tog, 26 (102)
65) sc across 102 (102)
66) 24, sc2tog, sc2tog, 46, sc2tog, sc2tog, 24 (98)
67) sc across 98 (98)
68) 23, sc2tog, sc2tog, 44, sc2tog, sc2tog, 23 (94)
69) sc across 94 (94)
70) 22, sc2tog, sc2tog, 43, sc2tog, sc2tog, 21 (90)
71) sc across 90 (90)
72) 23, sc2tog, sc2tog, 39, sc2tog, sc2tog, 20 (86)
73) sc across 86 (86)
74) 21, sc2tog, sc2tog, 39, sc2tog, sc2tog, 18 (82)
75) sc across 82 (82)
76) 21, sc2tog, sc2tog, 36, sc2tog, sc2tog, 17 (78)
77) sc across 78 (78)

Right Leg
78) sc in the first 5 stitches, place a stitch marker in the next stitch after you complete it. Sc in the
next 35 stitches. (36)
79-82) Start first stitch in this row in the stitch with the marker from the last row. Sc all the way
around (36)
83) 2 sc in the first 2 sc, sc in the next 14 stitches, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc in the next 16 stitches (36)
Pause, Stuff Rabbit.

 

Left Leg

78) Use bobbin made before and attach in first stitch next to the right leg. Place through both
sides of the Rabbit. Single crochet through both sides in the first 3 stitches (make sure you work
tight and pull tight to close the Rabbit up) Start the next stitch normally in only one side of the
Rabbit. The one you would normally work on.
In the first stitch beyond these, work one sc and place your stitch marker. Sc in the next 35
stitches (36) Ignore the 3-single crochet to close gap in count.
79-82) sc 36 across (36)
83) 2 sc in the first 2 sc, sc in the next 14 stitches, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc in the next 16 stitches (36)
—-
84) sc 36 across (36)
85) 2 sc in the first 2 sc, sc in the next 15 stitches, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc in the next 15 stitches (36)
86) 2 sc in the first 5 sc, sc in the next 13 stitches, sc2tog, sc2tog, sc in the next 14 stitches (39)
87) sc across 39 (39)
88) *sc in the first 5 stitches, sc2tog* repeat * to * 5 times, sc in the last 4 stitches. (34)
89) sc 34 across (34)
90) *sc in the first 4 stitches, sc2tog* repeat * to * 5 times, sc in the last 5 stitches. (29)
91) *sc in the first 3 stitches, sc2tog* repeat * to * 5 times, sc in the last 4 stitches. (24)
92) *sc in the first 2 stitches, sc2tog* repeat * to * 5 times, sc in the last 4 stitches. (19)
Pause and Stuff Foot
93) *sc in the first stitch, sc2tog* repeat * to * 6 times, sc in the last stitch. (13)
94) sc in the first stitch, decrease around (sc2tog) 6 times. Fasten off. Sew circle closed.
Start back at the right foot that you left off at. Start that row at row 84 above and work the
same.

Ears (make two)
1) ch 3, join with a ss. ch 1, put 6 sc into the middle OR make a magic circle and put 6 sc into it.
(6)
2) 2 sc in each stitch around. (12)
3) sc in the first 2 stitches *2 sc in the next stitch, sc in the next stitch* repeat * to * around. (17)
4) sc around 17 (17)
5) sc2tog (starting in the same stitch), sc in the next 7 stitches, sc2tog, sc in the next 6 stitches
(15)
6) *sc2tog, sc in the next 3 stitches* repeat * to * around. (12)
Ss to join. Leave tail to sew onto Rabbit

Tail
The tail for the rabbit is simply a pom-pom. Here is a link to a tutorial on how to make a pompom. https://hearthookhome.com/different-methods-making-pom-poms/ The size is up to you!
When you are finished making the pom-pom, simply sew it onto the Rabbit under the bottom of
the sweater in the back.
Ears (make two)
1) Create a magic circle, or ch 3, join with a slip stitch. Put 6 sc into the middle (6)
2) 2dc in each sc around (12)
3-4) sc around (12)
5) *sc in the first stitch, 2 sc in the next, * repeat * to * around (18)
6-7) sc around (18)
8) *sc in the first 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next*, repeat * to * around (24)
9-10) sc around (24)
11) *sc in the first 3 stitches, 2 sc in the next*, repeat * to * around (30)
12-13) sc around (30)
14) *sc in the first 4 stitches, 2 sc in the next*, repeat * to * around (36)
15-17) sc around (36)
18) *sc in the first 5 stitches, 2 sc in the next*, repeat * to * around (42)
19-37) sc around (47)
38) *sc in the first 4 stitches, sc2tog in the next*, repeat * to * around (36)
39-41) sc around (36)
42) *sc in the first 3 stitches, sc2tog in the next*, repeat * to * around. Sc in the last stitch (29)
43-44) sc around (29)

45) *sc in the first 2 stitches, sc2tog in the next*, repeat * to * around. Sc in the last stitch (22)
46) sc around (22)
47) *sc in the first stitch, sc2tog in the next*, repeat * to * around. Sc in the last stitch (18)
48) sc around (18)

You could also do a large pom pom for the tail!


Tie off, leave long tail to sew to the head.
You’re Done! What a sweet little Rabbit! Now, on to clothes.

 

Rabbit Sweater with Stripe
You may complete this sweater with the stripe noted in the pattern, or you can do it as a solid
color with an applique of your choice.

Depending on the size of your Rabbit, you’ll want to keep trying it on the Rabbit as your working
for length. I made 3 Rabbits. All with the same hook, I used worsted weight yarn (size 4) and
each Rabbit turned out a different size. It’s kind of like with clothing, everyone has their own size
xl so there is no way to tell if it’s going to be the same until you do it. Therefore, you need to be
proactive when crocheting the sweaters for the Rabbits. For my smallest Rabbit, the turtle neck
worked out fine, but the body of the Rabbit’s sweater wound up too big and I had to go back and
reduce my hook size to make it fit properly. If you continue to try the sweater on the Rabbit you’ll
notice very quickly if you need to change the hook size. For the most part, the sweater should fit
snuggly against your Rabbit.

The Turtle neck part is worked separately from the body of the sweater and depending on if you
choose the rimmed bottom or the SC bottom, the rimmed bottom is also worked separately.

Turtle Neck

1) ch 41, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc 40 across, ch 2, turn (40)
2-34) dc 40 across in back loops only until you reach 34 rows of dc.
Finishing: Ch 1 and put 2 sc in each row all the way down the bottom (this will be the side you
keep working for the sweater body) (68)
Join pieces together and either sew or single crochet to join, turn seam to the inside so it is
hidden. I prefer to fold my turtle neck over when I’m working on it further, its easiest.

Sweater Body
Note: The first 2dc is always worked in the same stitch as the chain, and the chain is ignored, it is
not a counted stitch.
Attach yarn near the seam you just made in the turtle neck. This will keep the seams together.
Make sure you are working on the side of the turtle neck you just single crocheted across.
1) ch 1, sc all the way around, ss to join (68)
2) ch 2, 2 dc in the first stitch, dc in the next 31 stitches, 2 dc in the following 3 stitches, dc in the
next 31 stitches, 2dc in the next 2 stitches, join with a slip stitch (74)
3) ch 2, 2 dc, 34, 3 stitch increase, 31, 2 stitch increase, ss join (80)
Stop and change to stripe color, optional
4) ch 2, 2 dc, 37, 3 stitch increase, 37, 2 stitch increase, ss join (86)
5) ch 2, 2 dc, 40, 3 stitch increase, 40, 2 stitch increase, ss join (92)
6) ch 2, 2 dc, 43, 3 stitch increase, 43, 2 stitch increase, ss join (98)
7) dc 98 around, ss join (98)
8) ch 2, 2 dc, 46, 3 stitch increase, 46, 2 stitch increase, ss join (105)
From here on out is just for length. You don’t want to cover the Rabbits tail in the back and
you want to make allowances for the end of the sweater, either the single crochet bottom or
the rimmed bottom.
9-optional (I had to go to 12 on my smaller Rabbit with a smaller hook)
dc 105 around, ss join. (105)
Begin either the rimmed or the single crochet bottom.

Single crochet bottom (keep working without tying off) ss2tog is slipstitch decrease.
4 rows of sc around the bottom. (105)
Last row: ss2tog, ss in the next 40, ss2tog, ss2tog, ss2tog, ss in the next 40, ss2tog in the next two
stitches. Tie off.

Rimmed Bottom (optional)

For the rimmed bottom, you will tie off your work at the sweater and work the rimmed
piece and attach it to the sweater at the end.
1) ch 7, dc in the 2nd ch from the hook, dc across 5, ch 2 turn
2- 52) dc in back loops only, dc across 5, ch 2 turn (52)
53) ch 1, sc along one side (this is the side you’ll attach to the sweater) bind off. Sew to the
sweater.


Pattern Testers: I want to thank my pattern testers, for whom I could never have finished this!
From my severe dyslexia to working when I’m dead dog tired, they have made sure that the
pattern works up perfectly as well as mistakes in the text itself! Thank you!
Fae S. – Thank you for working it up soooo quickly and keeping me informed! You rock!

P.S. – I WOULD LOVE TO SEE YOUR RABBITS! Upload them to Facebook or send them to me at thewoolynoggin@gmail.com!

A note to everyone, If you find any mistakes, please bear with me! Let me know about mistakes any way that you choose so I can fix them. And as always, have fun!

 

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